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DIY projects

#6 Fitted wardrobe finishing touches

If you’ve arrived here you’re just a few small jobs away from wardrobe utopia.


#1 | Moulding around framework

If there are sizable gaps where your wardrobe meets the floor/wall/ceiling, quadrant moulding is ideal to conceal this whilst looking smart. Like with the beading, simply cut the moulding to the right length and mitre cut where necessary. Apply grab adhesive (cheap stuff from Wilkos does the trick) to the moulding and apply pressure until the moulding has properly bonded. Remove any excess that has sneaked out and Bob’s your uncle, gaps hidden. For a really smart finish, apply some caulk to hide tiny gaps between the moulding and framework/wall

#2 | Painting

Before slapping on the final colour, use a special MDF primer paint on all the woodwork including the frame. This will avoid the final paint job from being blotchy. I’d recommend using a mini-roller with gloss sleeve for an even finish which should be applied sparingly otherwise you may get the dreaded drippage which will leave paint bumps all over.

On the doors and framework, I did one coat of MDF primer and 2 coats of emulsion (the same paint as walls) which did the job nicely. As for the interior walls, one coat of MDF primer and 2 coats of brilliant white emulsion worked well as it means the inside of the wardrobe is as light as poss.

Festive paint stations

#3 | Rails and knobs

Once all the painting is done, you can put up a rail and do the inaugural hang – a special moment. Another quick step is the door knobs, which you can drill through the back of the wardrobe for. Measure this really carefully as drilling a hole in the wrong place of your finished door would be a traumatic experience.

#4 | Make yourself a brew and admire your masterpiece

At times, it felt like I would never finish this project but the time and mild stress was well worth it. Saving well over a grand was obviously a massive plus but the main pro of doing it yourself is how good it feels once it’s done. Before building this wardrobe I genuinely struggled to put up a curtain rail, so if you’re doubting your ability, remember this. It’s all about patience.

If you decide to give it a go, I’m happy to answer any questions and don’t forget to send me a photo!

Equipment

  • Caulk with gun
  • Mitre saw or mitre box with wood saw
  • Paint roller with gloss sleeve
  • Paint brush
  • Paint tray
  • Impact driver or screwdriver with bits

Materials

  • Quadrant moulding
  • Grab adhesive
  • MDF primer
  • Final paint
  • Rail and supports
  • Knobs

2 replies on “#6 Fitted wardrobe finishing touches”

Hi Jack and Haz,
Really enjoyed reading your wardrobe build as I am about to do one myself. I am just curious as to why you went for this design with CLS battens?
Rather than whats is more commonly seen with the individual carcasses built and put on a plinth.
Im glad I have seen this because it looks alot simplier and would cost a lot less also I would have thought.
Just one more question which is the fastening of the doors. You fastened the Euro hinges straight onto the CLS? Are they holding ok with no sag?
Thanks for the post!
Kind regards,
Simon

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Hi Simon, glad the posts have helped!

Truthfully, the main reason I opted for CLS over the conventional carcass approach was a lack of knowledge! The wardrobe was my first proper wood project so I didn’t have a clue how they were normally made. In hindsight, I may actually do the same again as while not as slick, it still looks pretty good and was a lot cheaper than building proper carcasses. Plus much less skill and gear required 🙂

The hinges haven’t sagged but if you do use CLS go for the 89mm wide stuff. Otherwise you’ll find that the mounting plate won’t fully sit on the CLS and that’s not a fun issue to resolve.

Hope it goes well and send some pics when you’re done!

Jack

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